Edinburgh & the Lothians

Edinburgh is Scotland's best-connected city. Edinburgh Airport has direct flights from across Europe, North America, and the Middle East. The city centre is a 25-minute tram ride from the airport. Edinburgh Waverley station sits in the heart of the city with fast rail connections — London (4.5 hours), Glasgow (50 minutes), Newcastle (1.5 hours). The LNER east coast service and Avanti West Coast via Glasgow make the city easily reachable from anywhere in Britain.

The Lothians are compact — East Lothian's castles are 30-45 minutes by car or local train from Edinburgh. West Lothian (Linlithgow) is 20 minutes by train. You don't strictly need a car here, though one helps for the coastal sites.

Edinburgh's Old Town puts you within walking distance of Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, and the Royal Mile's medieval closes. The New Town is elegant and quieter, with easy access to transport. For East Lothian, the coastal town of North Berwick is a charming base — 30 minutes from Edinburgh by train, with Tantallon and Dirleton castles nearby. Linlithgow in West Lothian makes a peaceful alternative to the city, with its stunning palace right on the high street.

Edinburgh has Scotland's widest range of accommodation from budget hostels to five-star hotels. Book ahead during the Edinburgh Festival (August) when the city fills to capacity.

April to October is ideal — the longest days, warmest weather, and all castle interiors are open. Edinburgh in August is electric with the Festival Fringe, but accommodation prices triple and the city is packed. May, June, and September offer the best balance of weather and crowd levels.

Winter has its own magic — Edinburgh's Christmas markets, Hogmanay celebrations, and dramatically lit castle rock. Most major sites stay open year-round, though some smaller Lothian castles have reduced winter hours. The East Lothian coast is beautiful but exposed — wrap up warm outside summer.